Malasana on a Saturday When the Vintage Shops Argue

Malasana is Madrid's counterculture neighborhood around Plaza del Dos de Mayo where the movida madrilena was born. The streets are narrow, the graffiti is art, and the bars stay open until the Metro reopens at 6 AM. Bodega de la Ardosa on Calle de Colon has poured vermouth on tap since 1892, and the tortilla espanola is the standard.

Insider tip: Sunday morning at the Rastro flea market followed by vermut and tapas on Calle de la Cava Baja in La Latina is Madrid's secular religion.